Nikon D1The D1 WonderCam!<<Viewfinder :(Previous) | (Next): Exposure>> Page 5:OpticsReview First Posted: May 12, 2000 |
Optics
In this section, we usually discuss the lens characteristics of the camera we're describing. In the case of the D1, you can attach pretty much any lens you want, as long as it uses the Nikon "F" mount. The D1 features the standard F mount, with both mechanical AF coupling for older lenses, and AF electrical contacts for the latest AF-IF or AF-S Nikkor lenses with internal focus motors. With very few exceptions, you can use the D1 with any F-Mount Nikkor lens ever made. (Actually, we're not personally aware of any F-mount lenses that *wouldn't* work, but do know that some of the really unusual Nikkor lenses from the past (full-frame fisheye lenses?) had problems on some camera bodies, requiring mirror lockup to function properly. - This is a vanishingly small percentage of the possible lenses that could be used with the camera though, so you can safely assume that most any F-mount lens in your camera bag will work just fine with the D1.
Functions and exposure modes available with a given lens will vary with the type: More recent Nikkors (the D-type models) include a microchip that communicates focal-distance information to the camera. Lenses without the "D" microchip won't support the "3D matrix metering" mode. Here's a table giving a brief idea of the functionality available with different Nikkor lens types (abstracted from the D1's manual).
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Type D AF Nikkor
Lenses (except IX models) |
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Other Type D Nikkor Lenses |
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Other AF Nikkor
Lenses (Excluding F3AF) |
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AI-P Lenses |
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Other Lenses |
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Obviously, optical specifications vary greatly depending on the lens you
attach. One thing that struck us about the Nikkor lenses we used with the D1
though, was how vastly superior they were to the lenses on any of the "prosumer"
digicams we've tested to date: Chromatic aberration was essentially nonexistent,
barrel and pincushion distortion were very low, sharpness was excellent, etc.,
etc. It should probably be no surprise that a lens costing more than an entire
lower-end digicam would perform better than that camera's own lens, but the
magnitude of the difference in quality was amazing.
One important note about
Nikkor optics on the D1: With linear dimensions of 15.6 x 23.7 mm, the CCD in
the D1 is a fair bit smaller than a 35mm film frame. Thus, the D1 is essentially
cropping into the central area of the normal 35mm field of view that any given
lens would have. The result is that the field of view of any lens attached to
the D1 will be narrower than the same lens on a Nikon film camera. The net
effect is that the D1 has a "focal length multiplier" of 1.5. Thus, a 50mm lens
on the D1 will behave much as a 75mm lens on a film-based Nikon SLR. This is
good news for sports photographers (all your telephoto lenses just got 50%
longer), but not so good for landscape photographers or others who shoot lots of
wide angle photos. The D1 was apparently part of the reason that Nikon came out
with the 17-35mm zoom lens that we used in much of our testing of the camera: On
the D1, this lens effectively translates into a 25.5 to 52.5mm, providing
moderate (rather than extreme) wide angle coverage.
As shown in the
illustration above, the CCD of the D1 is also much larger than that used in the
Coolpix 950. One consequence of this is that depth of field in lenses used with
the D1 will be much shallower at any given aperture value (f-stop) than with the
950. (Depth of field as a function of f-stop will match that of the same lenses
on 35mm cameras, even though the "effective focal length" is increased.) Many of
our test shots show the reduced depth of field of the D1 with typical Nikkor
lenses from Nikon's 35mm line, as compared to the same images shot with the 950
or 990.
Given that the optical characteristics
will depend entirely on the lens attached, we'll instead concentrate here on the
focusing options and modes. There's a lot to talk about here, given the
extraordinary control and flexibility afforded by the D1's autofocus systems.
The D1 allows you to take advantage of auto or manual focus via a small dial on
the front of the camera, right next to the lens. Setting the switch to "M" puts
the camera into manual focus mode, "S" places it in Single Servo AF (focus
priority) and "C" puts it into Continuous Servo AF(release priority). Single Servo simply
means that the camera sets focus only once, when the shutter button is first
pressed halfway, and is best for still objects. Continuous Servo means that the
camera continuously adjusts the focus, as long as the shutter button is halfway
pressed and is best for moving objects. The AF-On buttons (one for vertical
shooting and one for horizontal) perform the same function as halfway pressing
the shutter button by setting the focus.
You also have the freedom of setting the autofocus area on
the D1. Pressing the AF Area Mode button on the top of the camera lets you
select between Single Area, Dynamic and Dynamic with Closest Subject Priority.
Single Area AF simply means that the camera judges focus based on one part of
the subject (using whichever bracket in the optical viewfinder you chose as the
active one). Dynamic AF employs all five of the autofocus brackets, or areas.
The camera first focuses on the subject in the central focus area. Whenever the
subject moves to a different AF area, the camera also shifts the focus to
"follow" the subject. This is great for irregularly moving subjects. Finally,
Dynamic AF with Closest Subject Priority means that the camera first focuses on
the closest object that falls into one of the five focus areas and then tracks
it as it moves. (Note that no focus area brackets are illuminated in the
viewfinder with this mode and that this mode doesn't work well with telephoto
lenses or poorly lit subjects, according to Nikon). In Single Area AF mode, you
can change the main focus area by unlocking the focus area selector (the rocker
toggle button on the back panel) and then shifting the focus area using the up,
down, right or left arrow keys. Then, simply lock the focus area selection by
sliding the switch back into place.
There are two methods for using the
AF Lock function. The first is to place the central subject in the selected
focus area, halfway press the shutter button, then re-align the composition and
fire the shutter. Alternatively, when using Single Servo AF, you can press the
AF-L/AE-L button to lock focus (and exposure, unless set for focus only in the
custom settings menu). Keeping this button pressed will lock focus and/or
exposure, even if the shutter button is released. This allows you to recompose
the photograph without keeping your finger on the shutter button, but on the
AE-L/AF-L button instead. (Thereby resulting in less chance that you'll
accidentally fire the shutter when you don't intend to.)
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