Olympus E-10A 4 megapixel sensor and unique SLR optics make for a major coup for Olympus! (Final review, based on full-production model.)<<Executive Overview :(Previous) | (Next): Viewfinder>> Page 3:DesignReview First Posted: 1/26/2001 |
Design
The Olympus E-10
is a much anticipated arrival into the SLR digicam arena. With enough features
and sophistication to lure professional photographers and novices alike, the
E-10 offers full exposure control and the first true four megapixel CCD sensor
in an affordable camera, all in a familiar 35mm camera design. Its durable cast
aluminum body (along with its rather substantial lens) make the E-10 a hefty 37
ounces (1048 grams) without batteries or media, but compact portability isn't
exactly what the E-10's designers were after. An accompanying neck strap should
make things a little easier, although the camera lacks the exceptional balance
we so admired in Olympus' C-2100 Ultra Zoom model. Dimensionally, the E-10
measures 5.0 x 4.1 x 7.0 inches (128 x 105 x 178mm).
The
cast aluminum body design of the E-10 (shown above) is actually important for
several reasons. Not only does it provide a very rigid, rugged housing for the
optics and electronics of the camera, but it also serves as a heat sink for the
E-10's 4 megapixel CCD. We view this last as a significant feature, and it's
very likely a major contributor to the E-10's superb low-light performance.
Noise currents in CCDs are very strong functions of temperature, doubling about
every 6-8 degrees C. Thus, if you're interested in minimizing noise in a digital
camera, controlling the CCD temperature becomes quite important. Due to their
compact size, many consumer-level digicams run quite hot internally,
particularly after being used in capture mode with the LCD running for an
extended period. In the E-10, Olympus has done two things to dramatically reduce
the normal operating temperature of the CCD. The first thing we noticed was the
LCD panel, which is packaged as a separate unit that can tilt out from the back
of the camera. Just having it external to the main camera body cavity will
reduce its contribution to the camera's heat load, and when swung out from the
body, it's impact is even further reduced.
The
most important factor in reducing thermal noise in the E-10 though, is the way
Olympus has designed the entire body to be a heat sink for the imager. The
illustration above (courtesy Olympus) shows a cross-section of the camera, with
the metal body parts highlighted. The dark vertical rectangle at the center is
the CCD imager, which you can see is directly in contact with a metal insert
that in turn connects to the aluminum body casting. This arrangement conducts
heat away from the imager much more efficiently than in any consumer-level
cameras we've seen in the past, and could easily result in CCD operating
temperatures 20 degrees C lower than in competing models. Using the "2x noise
per 6 degrees C" rule of thumb mentioned above, a 20 degree C reduction in
operating temperature could mean as much as a factor of eight difference in image noise. While we don't have
any specifications from Olympus as to the actual temperature reduction due this
design, we can vouch for the fact that the E-10's low light performance not only
exceptionally good, but seemed to degrade much less if the camera was operated
for a long time. Overall, a very intelligent, innovative design that seems to
have a real impact in daily use.
The E-10's SLR design features a "beam splitter" rather
than the traditional mirror, which directs the visual image to the optical
viewfinder and the CCD simultaneously. What this means is that the optical
viewfinder is usable at all times, without the blackout that would normally
occur when the shutter is triggered and the mirror folds up. Our test unit
arrived with several accessory components, including lens attachments with
grips, the lithium polymer battery and grip, and a wired remote. Because the
E-10's lens is not interchangeable, Olympus offers a range of accessory lenses
that attach to the camera's main lens via the 62mm filter threads. This stacking
of lenses can get rather long and heavy, but Olympus provides supports and grips
to help balance out the camera's weight and make it a little easier to hold with
the longest telephoto lens attached. We noticed that with the E-10, Olympus has
made some of its traditionally LCD menu-dependent functions accessible through
external exposure controls. This not only simplifies camera operation, but also
requires less reliance on the LCD menu, which in turn, equates to lower power
consumption.
The
front of the E-10 features the lens, autofocus sensor, shutter release button,
infrared remote control sensor, and the Quick Reference white balance button. As
noted earlier, the E-10 doesn't allow for interchangeable lenses, but there are
significant advantages to this approach, as well as the obvious disadvantage of
less flexibility in your choice of optics. The shutter button rests at an angle
on the hefty hand grip, which features a textured-rubber that grips the fingers
well.
The
hand grip side of the camera features little other than a neck strap attachment
eyelet and the memory card compartment, accessible from the camera's back panel
via a sliding lever. The compartment holds both SmartMedia and CompactFlash Type
I or II memory cards thanks to dual slots, and is protected by a hinged, plastic
door.
The
opposite side of the camera displays a wealth of controls, including the popup
flash release button, PC sync terminal for an external flash, sync terminal for
the wired remote control, auto/manual focus selector switch, I/O connector
compartment, DC power socket, and a handful of exposure controls. The flash and
wired remote control sync terminals are both protected by small, black,
threaded, plastic caps that screw into place. While these small caps provide
good protection, we found them a little difficult to unscrew and very easy to
lose. The DC power socket is covered by a flexible, rubber flap that remains
attached to the camera and simply folds out of the way when the camera is
plugged into its AC adapter. The I/O connector compartment is located under the
neck strap attachment eyelet, and accessed by opening the hinged plastic door.
Inside the compartment are the Video Out and USB jacks. Exposure controls on
this side of the camera include the Macro, Metering, Exposure Compensation, and
Drive buttons, as well as the focus selector switch and the release mechanism
for the LCD monitor, which we'll detail a little further on.
On top
of the camera are more exposure controls and dials, as well as the hot shoe for
mounting an external flash unit, the popup flash, a small status display panel,
and the power switch. The external flash hot shoe features a sliding plastic cap
that protects the contacts from accidental scratching, dirt, or other harm. A
command dial is present for changing camera settings, as is a mode dial for
changing the exposure mode. Other exposure controls include the White Balance,
Flash Mode, Image Quality, memory card selector, and status display panel
backlight buttons. We always like to see status display panels like this, as
they help avoid use of the camera's LCD menu system, saving power and making
control setting much faster. The status display panel's backlight feature
illuminates the panel with a yellow, fluorescent light, so you can check camera
settings in the dark.
The
remaining exposure controls, LCD monitor, and optical viewfinder are all on the
camera's back panel. The SLR optical viewfinder features a notched dioptric
adjustment dial around the outside of the eyepiece, to accommodate eyeglass
wearers. The small lever just left and below the eyepiece controls a shutter
that can be used to block the viewfinder to prevent ambient light from affecting
the exposure when using the camera on a tripod. Camera controls on the rear
panel include a subcommand dial, the display and menu buttons, a set of arrow
keys, and the OK, Info, Protect, and Erase buttons. We loved the design of the
LCD monitor, which actually pops off of the back panel and rotates upwards as
much as 90 degrees for better viewing when shooting from low angles. Because it
lifts off of the back panel slightly, the LCD monitor can also face downwards at
about 20 degrees for high-angle shooting.
The bottom panel of the E-10 is
slightly uneven, holding the battery compartment, speaker, and metal tripod
mount. While the camera bottom isn't perfectly flat overall, there's a very
broad tripod mounting flange for good stability, and the tripod mount also
incorporates sockets to receive the anti-rotation pins some tripod heads have on
them. (Overall, a very rugged-looking tripod mount, in our opinion.) We are also
glad to report that the tripod mount and battery compartment are far enough away
from each other to allow for quick battery changes while mounted. The battery
compartment features a small, silver lock that turns to unlock the compartment,
releasing a sliding tray that holds either two CR-V3 lithium batteries or four
AA alkaline, Ni-MH, or Ni-Cd batteries. The tray slides in and out of the
compartment, which is also nice when working with a tripod.
To head off the emails before they
arrive, we'll note here that the speaker on the camera bottom has nothing to do
with multimedia capabilities, but rather exists for the sole purpose of giving
the camera the familiar "click-whir" sound of a film-based SLR. In fact, Olympus
was so dedicated to verisimilitude in this respect that the E-10 offers your
choice of two camera sounds, corresponding to the digitized sounds of their OM-1
and OM-2 film cameras! We're not sure we see the value in this, but can report
that camera sounds are very handy when shooting portraits and other
people-pictures, as it gives the subject(s) some idea of when the picture was
actually shot, so they can relax and avoid "posing fatigue".
The
optional lithium polymer battery and grip kit provides not only a more powerful,
longer lasting power source, but also a thick grip and secondary shutter release
for holding the camera vertically.
We
found the shape of the hand grip a little uncomfortable for our hands, as the
placement of the shutter button pushed our hand down a bit on the grip. Combined
with the rather diminutive dimensions of the camera overall (when compared to
large professional film SLRs), the result was that the bottom of the hand grip
rested in the center of our palm, rather than against the heel of our hand. This
meant we had less leverage on the camera, and contributed to an unbalanced
feeling when using the grip vertically, single-handed. We assume that Olympus
placed the secondary shutter button below the top corner of the grip to prevent
any accidental triggering, but we would rather see it higher on the grip, with a
lock feature like that of the Nikon D1.
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